Tuesday, January 12, 2010

The Best Lomo Saltado Recipe


Lomo saltado is probably one of the best-loved and best-known Peruvian dishes after ceviche. It is also a great (and delicious) example of the cultural melting pot that is Lima. The Chinese gave the dish its stir fried cooking style, as well as the addition of soy sauce and ginger. This was added to typical Peruvian creole ingredients, like tomatoes, red onions, cumin, aji panca, and the ever-present cilantro. Throw in some sliced steak into the mix, and top it off with French-inspired frites, and you have yourself an edible microcosm of Limeno culture.

To keep with Chinese tradition - and to give it a great flavor - lomo saltado should be cooked in a very hot wok. However, you can also use a saute pan. Make sure to use oils with high smoking points, such as vegetable or peanut so you can properly sear the beef. It only takes a few minutes to cook lomo saltado after all the ingredients are prepared, so also make sure that you have your white rice already cooked and your french fries kept warm in the oven.

I've made this recipe for lomo saltado for many parties and dinners, and people consistently say it's the best one that they've had. I hope you enjoy it.

Ingredients
  • 1/2 lb steak (sirloin, flap, skirt, even minute steak) cut into 1/2" thick strips
  • 2 minced garlic cloves
  • 1.5 t freshly grated ginger
  • 1 T aji panca paste
  • 3 T soy sauce
  • 2 t worcestershire sauce
  • 1/4 t ground black pepper
  • 1/4 t ground cumin
  • 1/4 t ground coriander
  • 1 read onion, feathered into 1" thick slices
  • 3 plum tomatoes, quartered lenght-wise
  • 1/2 c chopped cilantro
  • 3 T vegetable oil
  • 1 10 oz. bag frozen french fries
  1. Place steak, garlic, ginger, aji panca, soy sauce, worcestershire sauce, and spices into a bowl and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to marinate for 30 min. to 1 hour.
  2. While steak is marinating, prepare frozen french fries as directed on package. Keep cooked french fries in the oven to keep warm at about 200 degrees F.
  3. Heat 1 T vegetable oil in a wok or saute pan over high heat until you see ripples in the oil, or the oil "dances"
  4. Place half the steak into the wok or pan. Do not add any of the liquid from the marinating bowl, just the steak and whatever marinade that has clung to it. It is important to keep this in mind, or you will end up with a soupy lomo saltado.
  5. Stir fry until just browned, then remove from the plan and place into a bowl
  6. Add 1 T vegetable oil to the wok or pan and wait until the it becomes hot again and the oil ripples or "dances" in the wok or pan.
  7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with the remaining steak.
  8. Add 1 T vegetable oil to the wok or pan until hot. Add red onion and cook for 2-3 minutes. The onions should still retain some crunch and texture to them, so make sure not to overcook them.
  9. Add the tomatoes and stir constantly for 1-2 minutes until the skin starts to loosen from the the tomatoes and they begin to look soft. Remember that this is not a stew, so make sure not to overcook the vegetables
  10. Add the steak and stir for about 1 minute. Turn off heat and stir in cilantro.
  11. Plate individually, or in a single serving dish, and top with french fries.
Serves 2 - 3 people

***To really sex it up, add 1/4 cup of pisco to the pan before adding the cilantro and flambee it . This works best if you have a gas stove. If not, the recipe is fabulous just the way it is

Monday, January 11, 2010

Defining Peruvian Cuisine part I

I recently went grocery shopping and kept this blog in mind when shopping for meats and some produce, making sure that I purchased cuts and animals that I could use for various Peruvian dishes. Unfortunately, I haven't had the time to make anything, recently, but I will be sharing my recipe for the best lomo saltado shortly (as well as an explanation of its origins, etc.)

I have often thought about - and continue to think about - how to define Peruvian cuisine. It's a little tricky to define a cuisine that is at once very complex and quite simple - quite diverse, but yet very similar and unified by a common Spanish influence. I don't want to take up pages explaining the nuances of Peruvian cuisine in one single post, so I've decided to break it down in parts, and post them among recipes and ingredient explanations. I hope that they give you a better understanding of what Peruvian cuisine is all about.

Probably the most important and noted thing about Peruvian cuisine is its diversity. This is due in part to Peru's many diverse climate zones, as well as the many pre-colonization ethnic groups that exist throughout the country. It is important, then, to be familiar with Peru's main gastronomic regions and their cooking styles.

Lima
Most people's first experience with Peruvian cuisine is with the cuisine of Lima, the capital. Limeno cuisine is the most cosmopolitan and elegant regional cuisine in Peru. Because Lima was a Spanish colonial stronghold, the Spanish influence is greatly felt in the cuisine of the capital: onions, garlic, olive oil, rice, raisins, olives. The Spaniards and Creoles incorporated many native ingredients and seasonings, such as aji, achiote, potatoes, choclo (corn), and many other fruits and vegetables. With the introduction of African slaves came new methods of cooking that were incorporated into the cuisine. Unfortunately, because of the arid climate of the Peruvian coast, as well as the relatively small African population, African ingredients are seldom found in Peruvian cuisine. The French and Italians also greatly influenced the cuisine of the capital, especially in pastry and desserts. Later came the Chinese from southern China, who introduced Peruvians to Cantonese cuisine, stir frying, ginger, scallions, and soy sauce. The Japanese later arrived and helped with the development of Peru's famous seafood cuisine, perfecting such dishes as ceviche and tiradito, as well as introducing the tempura frying, which later became Lima's typical bar food, jalea (mixed batter fried seafood). The resulting effect is a very richly layered cuisine with influences from almost every continent.

Northern Coastal Peru
The Northern coast of Peru is North of Lima and has a climate that is reminiscent of Southern Florida: tropical, humid, hot, and beachy. Much of the northern coast is home to large mangrove populations, which are home to varieties of seafood not readily found in other parts of Peru, such as the black clam, a regional specialty. The food is mostly influenced by Spanish and indigenous cooking styles and ingredients. Parts of the northern coast are also where much of Peru's rice is cultivated. Many of the dishes found in this region are similar to dishes found in Lima, but with a much more rustic flare. Goat dishes are a specialty of this region.

Chincha, Canete, Ica, and Afro-Peruvian Cuisine
Chincha, Canete, and Ica are considered to be a stronghold of Peru's small African population. This is one of the most interesting cuisines of the country because of the innovation found in many dishes using offal and other discarded cuts of meat. Techniques are similar to many found in West Africa, such as bean purees, and thickening sauces with ground nuts. Lima also has a small African contingency that had contributed greatly to the Peruvian dessert repertoire, utilizing vegetables, beans, tropical fruits, and cornmeal to make some absolutely fantastic and unique desserts. Many Afro-Peruvian dishes and desserts are characterized by their use of cinnamon, cloves, and anise.

Arequipa
Arequipa could be considered the Louisiana of Peru when it comes to food. It is a unique region, culturally and gastronomically, and is known throughout the country for its regional specialties that are rarely found elsewhere in the country. Many national dishes have their origin in Arequipa, such as chupe de camarones, a rice and shrimp chowder. The region is also environmentally diverse, possessing an extensive coastline, as well as mountains, plains, and valleys, which is evident in the cuisine's use of lamb, beef, and seafood. The cuisine is rustic and notably indigenous with a lesser Spanish influence than what is found in Lima or other parts of the coast. It is known for its use of the Rocoto pepper to season food, as well as native herbs, such as huacatay to make sauces. The cuisine is perhaps one of the spiciest in the country. Rice is seldom served with food, as is common in Lima and much of the coast.

Andes
Much of the rest of Peru has a similar cuisine with slight regional differences in ingredients or methods, and a few regional specialties here and there. Potatoes are the main staple, of which there are thousands of varieties. The cuisine of the Andes has little to no Spanish influence and is closest to how the Inca people ate. Corn is also used, as well as squash. Native, highly nutritious grains, such as Quinoa and Kiwicha (amaranth) are used, as well as dried and freeze-dried potatoes. Lamb is used often, along with Alpaca and cuy (guinea pig). Fresh fish, like trout, is sometimes used. Seasonings are simple and usually include Aji and Rocoto, along with native herbs. The cuisine is very rustic. The drink of choice throughout much of the Andes (as well as Arequipa) is Chicha, a fermented corn beer.

Amazon
The cuisine of the Amazon is mainly characterized by its use of plantains, which are served in multiple forms at every meal. The cuisine is simple and concise, but highly seasoned and unique to other regional cuisines. Dried pork meat (cecina) and chicken are the main protein sources. There are large varieties of fresh water fish, such as the paiche, a giant catfish-like species. Turtle is also a common meat, as well as tapir and wild pig. The amazon region is known for its exotic fruits, and the strong alcohol that is derived from or infused with such fruits.

Chifa
Chifa is what Peruvians call Chines food. It is normally only found in Lima. However, the particular brand of Chinese cuisine found in Lima is different from Chinese cuisine found anywhere else, and many dishes are unique to the Chifa cuisine. The Chinese immigrants who arrived to Peru during the 19th century were mainly Cantonese. They adjusted the cuisine for the Peruvian palate, adding Aji, Rocoto, tomatoes, and cilantro, and focusing on more heavily-sauces meat dishes. One of Lima's most famous dish, lomo saltado, is actually a Chifa-inspired beef tenderloin stirfry seasoned with soy sauce and ginger.

Thursday, January 7, 2010

Pisco Sour


Cuba has the Mojito, Brazil has the Caipirinha, Mexico has the Margarita, and Peru has the Pisco Sour. Pisco is a clear brandy distilled from grapes - mainly the Quebranta varietal - brought over from Europe during the colonial period. Pisco is mainly produced in the Ica region around the town of Pisco, for which the liquor gets its name. There has been a long debate on whether Pisco originated in either Peru or Chile. The argument was supposedly brought to court and Peru came on top. What we have now is kind of like what France has with Champagne: anything called Pisco must come from Peru, just like Champagne must come from the Champagne region of France. Nevertheless, this is seldom enforced, and you continue to see Chilean Pisco shelved next to Peruvian Pisco.

Steps have been made to refine Pisco, and even the glassware company, Riedel, has made specially-designed Pisco glasses. Nevertheless, many people find the taste too strong and harsh, therefore making Pisco best-suited for cocktails. The Pisco Sour is a very refreshing, sweet, and slightly tart cocktail with a meringue "head", which is finished off with a few dashes of bitters. Most non-Peruvians are a bit squeamish about the addition of the raw egg white to make the meringue. The acidity from the lime juice "cooks" the egg white. However, you should you fresh eggs just to be safe. Pasteurized eggs are now readily available, as well, if you're concerned about the egg white.

Ingredients
  • sugar syrup (recipe follows)
  • lime juice, preferably key-lime juice
  • Pisco
  • 1 egg white
  • Angostura bitters
Sugar syrup
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 cup water
Combine sugar and water in a saucepan and simmer until sugar is completely dissolved. You can multiply this recipe if you plan on making a lot of cocktails. The syrup keeps in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks

Single serving
  1. Place 1 measure lime juice, 1 measure pisco, and 1 1/2 measure sugar syrup in a cocktail shaker, along with chopped ice and 1 egg white.
  2. Shake well and strain into a rocks glass. Garnish with a couple of dashes of bitters
Multiple servings / pitcher
  1. Place 1 cup lime juice, 1 cup pisco, and 1 1/2 cups sugar syrup in a blender along with a cup of crushed ice and 1 egg white.
  2. Blend until you see the meringue form (the contents will turn a frothy white)
  3. Pour into a pitcher or individual rocks glasses and garnish with a few dashes of bitters.

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Ingredient: Aji Amarillo (Yellow Aji)


One of the most important ingredients in Peruvian cuisine, especially the coastal cuisines and the creole cuisine of Lima, the capital, is the Aji Amarillo, or yellow aji. Aji, for Peruvians, simply means chili pepper. There are a handful of different types of aji in Peruvian gastronomy, but the Aji Amarillo is, by far, the most popular. It is also one of the most commonly used seasonings in Peruvian cuisine and, in effect, is what makes many Peruvian dishes Peruvian. Unlike chili peppers in other cuisines, which are valued more for their heat, Peruvians use chili peppers (aji) for the complex flavors they impart on a dish. It is even common for many Peruvian cooks to remove the seeds and veins, wash chili peppers, and even simmer them in milk to decrease the spiciness, but still retain the underlying flavors

Aji Amarillo is considered a mild chili pepper, if one were to compare to a bird's eye, scotch bonnet, or jalapeno. They measure an average of 5"-6" long, and approximately 3"-4" in circumference. They closely resemble banana peppers in shape and size. The most remarkable thing about the Aji Amarillo when you first see it is its color: a bright, golden-yellow, almost bordering on bright orange. They have a slight fruitiness to them when they are fresh. When cooked, they tend to give off an earthier aroma. Besides adding a great deal of flavor to dishes, the Aji Amarillo is also great for coloring dishes, and is used often in Peruvian cuisine for this purpose.

Unfortunately, Aji Amarillo is not readily available fresh in the United States. I have heard of some small farmers in California and even New York who grow some on a small scale, but they are definitely not something that you can find at a grocery store, or even a Peruvian food store. Almost all Peruvian markets will sell them frozen whole in packages of about 6-10. The frozen ones work very well and are versatile. You can also find Aji Amarillo paste in jars. These are extremely convenient, as many Peruvian recipes call for pureed Aji Amarillo. It also makes a good sauce when mixed with mayonnaise.

Purchasing both the paste and the whole chili peppers is best. However, if you had to choose just one, I'd recommend going with the whole frozen peppers. There are certain Peruvian dishes that require chopped or julienned Aji Amarillo. For recipes that require Aji amarillo paste or puree, you can simply whip one or two up in a blender or food processor with a little water or oil.

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Coq au Vin a la Peruana


I got the idea for this blog while making this dish today. I was wanting to make the French dish, Coq au Vin (chicken in wine sauce). However, I didn't have all of the ingredients necessary. However, I did have a few Peruvian seasonings, so I decided to make a sort of hybrid of the French dish using some Peruvian ingredients and cooking methods. The result is a dish that is thorougly Peruvian in flavor, but still retains the elegance of the traditional French stew. Instead of using a roux or beurre manie to thicken the sauce (both are butter and flour mixtures used often in French cuisine), I used ground roasted peanuts, which originated in Peru. This method is common in Peruvian cuisine to thicken stews and sauces and also imparts a mild earthiness to whatever it is applied.

Ingredients:
  • 1 boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into cubes
  • 4 small red potatoes, quartered, skins left on
  • 2 medium carrots, peeled, cut into 1/2" - 1" thick rounds
  • 1 yellow onion coarsely chopped
  • 1 t ground black pepper
  • 1 t whole cumin seeds (or ground cumin, if preferred)
  • 6 whole cloves
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 beef bouillon cube
  • 2 T aji panca paste
  • 1 fresh or frozen yellow aji, finely chopped (remove seeds and veins if you desire less heat)
  • 4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
  • 1 T worcestershire sauce
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 cup red wine
  • 1 cup warm water
  • 1/4 cup ground roasted peanuts
  1. Heat the vegetable oil over medium high heat, and add the bay leaves, cloves, cumin, and black pepper. Fry in the oil until fragrant. You will see that the bay leaves brown slightly, and the cloves "puff up"
  2. Add onion and cook until soft
  3. Add bouillon cube, break up and dissolve. Then add yellow aji and garlic and cook through, approximately 3-5 minutes.
  4. Add aji panca paste and worcestershire sauce and stir.
  5. Add potatoes and carrots and stir to coat vegetables
  6. Add red wine and water, then add chicken.
  7. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cover. Cook until potatoes and carrots are cooked through. The chicken will already be fully cooked and tender by this point
  8. Add ground roasted peanuts and simmer uncovered until sauce is thick. If sauce becomes too thick, add a little more water to thin it out - no more than a 1/4 cup
  9. Add salt to taste. Remember that there is a beef bouillon cube already in there, so be sparing with the salt.
  10. Serve with rice and garnish with a sprinkle of ground peanuts and some parsely
This dish can also be made with about 2-3 boneless chicken thighs in place of the breast.