I recently went grocery shopping and kept this blog in mind when shopping for meats and some produce, making sure that I purchased cuts and animals that I could use for various Peruvian dishes. Unfortunately, I haven't had the time to make anything, recently, but I will be sharing my recipe for the best lomo saltado shortly (as well as an explanation of its origins, etc.)
I have often thought about - and continue to think about - how to define Peruvian cuisine. It's a little tricky to define a cuisine that is at once very complex and quite simple - quite diverse, but yet very similar and unified by a common Spanish influence. I don't want to take up pages explaining the nuances of Peruvian cuisine in one single post, so I've decided to break it down in parts, and post them among recipes and ingredient explanations. I hope that they give you a better understanding of what Peruvian cuisine is all about.
Probably the most important and noted thing about Peruvian cuisine is its diversity. This is due in part to Peru's many diverse climate zones, as well as the many pre-colonization ethnic groups that exist throughout the country. It is important, then, to be familiar with Peru's main gastronomic regions and their cooking styles.
Lima
Most people's first experience with Peruvian cuisine is with the cuisine of Lima, the capital. Limeno cuisine is the most cosmopolitan and elegant regional cuisine in Peru. Because Lima was a Spanish colonial stronghold, the Spanish influence is greatly felt in the cuisine of the capital: onions, garlic, olive oil, rice, raisins, olives. The Spaniards and Creoles incorporated many native ingredients and seasonings, such as aji, achiote, potatoes, choclo (corn), and many other fruits and vegetables. With the introduction of African slaves came new methods of cooking that were incorporated into the cuisine. Unfortunately, because of the arid climate of the Peruvian coast, as well as the relatively small African population, African ingredients are seldom found in Peruvian cuisine. The French and Italians also greatly influenced the cuisine of the capital, especially in pastry and desserts. Later came the Chinese from southern China, who introduced Peruvians to Cantonese cuisine, stir frying, ginger, scallions, and soy sauce. The Japanese later arrived and helped with the development of Peru's famous seafood cuisine, perfecting such dishes as ceviche and tiradito, as well as introducing the tempura frying, which later became Lima's typical bar food, jalea (mixed batter fried seafood). The resulting effect is a very richly layered cuisine with influences from almost every continent.
Northern Coastal Peru
The Northern coast of Peru is North of Lima and has a climate that is reminiscent of Southern Florida: tropical, humid, hot, and beachy. Much of the northern coast is home to large mangrove populations, which are home to varieties of seafood not readily found in other parts of Peru, such as the black clam, a regional specialty. The food is mostly influenced by Spanish and indigenous cooking styles and ingredients. Parts of the northern coast are also where much of Peru's rice is cultivated. Many of the dishes found in this region are similar to dishes found in Lima, but with a much more rustic flare. Goat dishes are a specialty of this region.
Chincha, Canete, Ica, and Afro-Peruvian Cuisine
Chincha, Canete, and Ica are considered to be a stronghold of Peru's small African population. This is one of the most interesting cuisines of the country because of the innovation found in many dishes using offal and other discarded cuts of meat. Techniques are similar to many found in West Africa, such as bean purees, and thickening sauces with ground nuts. Lima also has a small African contingency that had contributed greatly to the Peruvian dessert repertoire, utilizing vegetables, beans, tropical fruits, and cornmeal to make some absolutely fantastic and unique desserts. Many Afro-Peruvian dishes and desserts are characterized by their use of cinnamon, cloves, and anise.
Arequipa
Arequipa could be considered the Louisiana of Peru when it comes to food. It is a unique region, culturally and gastronomically, and is known throughout the country for its regional specialties that are rarely found elsewhere in the country. Many national dishes have their origin in Arequipa, such as chupe de camarones, a rice and shrimp chowder. The region is also environmentally diverse, possessing an extensive coastline, as well as mountains, plains, and valleys, which is evident in the cuisine's use of lamb, beef, and seafood. The cuisine is rustic and notably indigenous with a lesser Spanish influence than what is found in Lima or other parts of the coast. It is known for its use of the Rocoto pepper to season food, as well as native herbs, such as huacatay to make sauces. The cuisine is perhaps one of the spiciest in the country. Rice is seldom served with food, as is common in Lima and much of the coast.
Andes
Much of the rest of Peru has a similar cuisine with slight regional differences in ingredients or methods, and a few regional specialties here and there. Potatoes are the main staple, of which there are thousands of varieties. The cuisine of the Andes has little to no Spanish influence and is closest to how the Inca people ate. Corn is also used, as well as squash. Native, highly nutritious grains, such as Quinoa and Kiwicha (amaranth) are used, as well as dried and freeze-dried potatoes. Lamb is used often, along with Alpaca and cuy (guinea pig). Fresh fish, like trout, is sometimes used. Seasonings are simple and usually include Aji and Rocoto, along with native herbs. The cuisine is very rustic. The drink of choice throughout much of the Andes (as well as Arequipa) is Chicha, a fermented corn beer.
Amazon
The cuisine of the Amazon is mainly characterized by its use of plantains, which are served in multiple forms at every meal. The cuisine is simple and concise, but highly seasoned and unique to other regional cuisines. Dried pork meat (cecina) and chicken are the main protein sources. There are large varieties of fresh water fish, such as the paiche, a giant catfish-like species. Turtle is also a common meat, as well as tapir and wild pig. The amazon region is known for its exotic fruits, and the strong alcohol that is derived from or infused with such fruits.
Chifa
Chifa is what Peruvians call Chines food. It is normally only found in Lima. However, the particular brand of Chinese cuisine found in Lima is different from Chinese cuisine found anywhere else, and many dishes are unique to the Chifa cuisine. The Chinese immigrants who arrived to Peru during the 19th century were mainly Cantonese. They adjusted the cuisine for the Peruvian palate, adding Aji, Rocoto, tomatoes, and cilantro, and focusing on more heavily-sauces meat dishes. One of Lima's most famous dish, lomo saltado, is actually a Chifa-inspired beef tenderloin stirfry seasoned with soy sauce and ginger.
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